I am often asked basic needlepoint questions that I take for granted but that many people don’t know because they don’t have the benefit of a LNS ( local needlepoint shop).  I will answer some of the questions that I often am asked and that I teach to new students in my beginning needlepoint class.   I hope this information is of some help to you.

CANVAS

Needlepoint canvas comes in many different mesh sizes.  The most common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 18 and 24 mesh.  What these numbers mean is the number relates to the number of stitches per inch.  In other words, 10 mesh means 10 stitches to the inch, 14 mesh means 14 stitches to the inch and so forth.  Most rugs are painted on 10 mesh while most Christmas stockings are painted on 14 or 18 mesh.  The smaller the mesh the more detail you can achieve on the canvas.

There are three types of weaves used to make needlepoint canvas.  The most common is mono mesh canvas in which the single horizontal thread is woven between single vertical threads.  The second type of canvas is called Penelope.  Here two horizontal threads are evenly woven between two vertical threads.  The third type of canvas is interlock.  This canvas features vertical and horizontal threads that intersect at each intersection.  It is a weak canvas and is not good for most needlepoint projects.

NEEDLES

Needlepoint is done with stainless steel blunt-ended needles called tapestry needles.  These needles come in different sizes, the most common being sizes 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, and 28.  Number 18 is the largest and number 28 is the smallest.  In most cases you will use a #18 needle on #10 canvas, a #20 needle on # 12 canvas, a #22 needle on # 14 canvas, a #24 needle on 16 canvas and a #26 or 28 on #24 canvas.

Needle should be kept clean.  You should start each new project with a new needle and change them often if you notice them turning dark.  Some people have trouble with oxidation due to the acidity of their skin. This oxidation turns a stainless steel needle black and can soil your work.  If this is more than an occasional problem you will want to purchase platinum, gold or surgical steel needles. 

  SCISSORS

Scissors come in many styles, sizes and prices.  You will want a pair of good embroidery scissors with tiny, sharp points.  Your fingers should fit comfortably in the finger holes.  You will be using these scissors hundreds of times on a single project.  They should be confortable and they should cut the threads easily.  That means they should be sharp.  Buy a good pair of scissors and hide them from your family and friends. If you do no cut paper, canvas, fishing line or your cuticles, they will last for many years.

LAYING TOOLS

Many of todays wonderful threads are flat ribbons.  Others, like silk and floss are composed of several tiny strands which can be separated.  A laying tool helps to keep the ribbon or threads flat when you stitch.  There are several types of laying tools available.  Choose on that feels comfortable to you.

STRETCHER BARS

You do not need to use stretcher bars to do needlepoint, but most experienced sttichers will not stitch any other way.  It is easier to control stitch tension with a frame and this will enhance your threads’ appearance since you will be completing your stitches in two motions.  If you find that you love using different stitches, they will look better when done on bars. Bars come in a variety of sizes and can be used over and over again so don’t discard them at the end of your project.

FLOOR STANDS

Floor stands hold your work for you and allows you to stitch with both hands.  Floor stands are essential when you are using a laying tool as you need both hands to work the needle and the laying tool.  Most stitchers use floor stands as it makes for much easier stitching.   It also allows you to use both hands which makes for faster stitching.

BOOKS

I can’t say enough about books.  I have several bookcases filled with needlework books and I have used each and every one of them at some time or another.  If you are going to pursue this hobby I would suggest starting your needlepoint library with Jo Ippolito Christensen’s book  The Needlepoint Book.  It is considered by many to be the “bible” of needlepoint and one that should be in everyone’s library.  As you continue to grow in this great hobby there are many wonderful books that are filled with thousands of speciality stitches for use in helping you decide what stitch to use in a certain area of your canvas.